Taken down in Varanasi

Delhi belly. Had to happen sooner or later, made it 6 weeks. Struck with a vengeance, completely floored me. Forty eight hours and counting staring at a ceiling fan. Alone except for a gecko I've named Humphrey. Humphrey has magical powers to appear anywhere (and nowhere) in the room he wants instantly merely by the power of thought.

I feel seriously ill. In case things get worse Slawek has kindly offered to arrange a pyre for me down by the river. It's the done thing here in Varanasi and we don't want to insult their customs. Will only be cheap, he says, because I'm skinny they won't need much wood. He's so thoughtful.

Plenty of time lying here to think deeply, explore long untouched, unresolved memories, ponder big, eternal questions.

Like, what if Humphrey is a girl?